ThingiMator - dry test runs

I have done some progress on my large hbot printer over last two weeks. I hope to get this project finished in a few weeks time. There is still plenty of things which have to be re-design and adjustments to be done.. here is a few photos and movies I made during XY gantry tests.

here are y axis belt idlers with added slot for core XY configuration (for fishing braid only..)

some tests using a pen

this one looks quite good

Pen is no the best tool for repeatability test, I planing to run test with one of my hotends as soon as I will put Z axis on it.

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Ramps 1.4 LCD with Marlin firmware

Small upgrade for my Prusa Air 2 reprap :).. I got this pcb with rotary switch and LCD from ReprapDiscount, they sell really nice looking and quality Ramps kits for quite cheap. Apparently they sell quite a lot of these LCD boards. To get the LCD board to work you need to uncomment kollowing line in your Configuration.h file // The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller // http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER Polish translation was done in Google translator probably ;), 'Ubity'? LoL Starting to love Marlin firmware especially with the ReprapDiscount smart controller. All the language translations are in the file language.h, choose your language and voila :). Of course some of the translations aren't perfect. // Languages // 1 English // 2 Polish // 3 French (awaiting translation!) // 4 German // 5 Spanish // 6 Russian ...

How To: Run Compaq ESP127 power supply model: PS-5501

I got ESP127 power supply from an old Compaq server some time ago, with intention to use it as my RepRap printer power supply. But I couldn't find any useful information on the internet on how to get it to power on. Today, I've decided to grab my multimeter and play with it to see if I will be able to get it to work. By default when you plug the power cord to it, the cooling fan will start spinning but the green LED at the back will stay off and there will be no voltage (or almost no voltage) on any of the power rails +3.3v, +5v, +12v. This power supply +12v rail can handle 25 amperes which makes it perfect for a reprap. After an hour or so... I saw a green light ;) I've soldered terminal socket to the 12v pads to make it more portable and easy to setup.

SLA LCD / DLP Resin 3D Printer

It's been a while since my last post, finally got some time for a short update. I have decided to try SLA type printer as these have much higher resolution comparing to FDM printers. I'm a hands on person so instead of buying one I've decided to design and build one by myself, it's always a fun and a good way of learning new skills. The main goal is to build an LCD-based 3D printer that will work with both UV and Daylight resins. For now, I will try to get it to work only with daylight curing resins as the iPad LCD won't really pass anything below 450nm. Here are some renders: It's designed around iPad 9.7" retina LCD. I'm planning to add LED array underneath the screen (460-465nm epileds) and remove backlight diffusers and the polarizer. I'm currently working on FEP film VAT.

Rav's Lab

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