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Showing posts from 2012

Ramps 1.4 LCD with Marlin firmware

Small upgrade for my Prusa Air 2 reprap :).. I got this pcb with rotary switch and LCD from ReprapDiscount, they sell really nice looking and quality Ramps kits for quite cheap. Apparently they sell quite a lot of these LCD boards.  To get the LCD board to work you need to uncomment kollowing line in your Configuration.h file // The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller // http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER Polish translation was done in Google translator probably ;), 'Ubity'? LoL Starting to love Marlin firmware especially with the ReprapDiscount smart controller. All the language  translations are in the file language.h, choose your language and voila :). Of course some of the translations aren't perfect. // Languages // 1  English // 2  Polish // 3  French (awaiting translation!) // 4  German // 5  Spanish // 6  Russian ...

My first 'home made' Reprap hotend/nozzle

This one was made by myself, my very first 'home made' hotend for my Prusa Air 2 3D printer, 0.4 mm nozzle, 2 x 6r8 resistors, 3mm filament. Made of brass and ptfe. Pic.1 just another reprap hotend... The one from Pic.1 was based on my first hotend I got on ebay, which started to leak ABS after few days of printing (Pic. 2). Yeap, this black 'thing' is a melted ABS.. My version worked quite well but I didn't have time to fully test it. I can only say that PTFE is not great for higher temperatures, probably it would last longer if used with PLA:175-180 degrees but it gets too soft at 230.. Pic.2 Leaking PTFE hotend

J-Head based Experimental Hot End MK I

Here is one of the hotends for my reprap I'm working on.. PEEK is definitely a better choice than PTFE. It fits perfectly Greg's Wade reloaded  extruder Pic 1.  cold end without hex lock screw as you can  see ;) Pic 2. hot side, with 6R8 3watt ceramic resistor Pic 3. Total length of PEEK part is 40mm  And here is a small part printed with MK I ,nozzle used 0.3mm 3mm filament